Upholstery fabric articles and information

Articles about upholstery fabrics including vinyl, pvc, patent vinyl, snake skins, and reptile prints.

Archive for the ‘ Faux leather ’ Category

Faux leather fabric can turn anything in to an expensive looking piece. But to make your leather look original and stand out from the rest, you may want to consider painting it to give it an extra something special. This tutorial will show you how to paint imitation leather to create a stunning pattern.

To do this, you will need the following:

• Blue scotch painter’s tape
• X-Acto Knife
• Pen
• Natural, unfinished leather, 20×7

To Dye Your Leather:
• Eco Flo Leather Dye
• Water
• Sponge
• Wool (for burnishing)
• Latex gloves

To Finish Your Leather Fabric:
• Sennelier Gold Shellac Ink
• Eco Flo Acrylic Leather Finish
• Ink Pen

To get started, cover your entire piece of leather with the Blue Scotch painter’s tape. Draw the pattern of your choosing on top of the tape using a pen. This tutorial used a honeycomb pattern. To create the same look, draw circles.

Cut away the tape with the X-Acto knife to show your pattern.

Mix up your dye; one part water to one part dye. Put on your gloves to protect your hands. To apply the dye to the leather, use a sponge and press the dye into the pattern. Rub the sponge in a circular motion. Then, let it dry for approximately 10-15 minutes.

Peel the tape away. If you want, you can use the Sennelier gold shellac-based ink to add a glow to the pattern. Let this dry before you apply the acrylic leather finish.

These are just the basic steps that you can take away and use to create your own original, patterned leather. You can create your own pattern or use different colored dye to get something entirely different. The possibilities for painting your leather are endless but the result is beautiful leather than you can use to make a purse, book cover, skirt, and more.

There are many ways to make your home uniquely yours. It starts with choosing paint colors for the walls and carpet colors. Then, there are little details you can add, pictures you can hang, and flowers you can place on the tables.

Along with making your home look original, you also want it to look rich and welcoming. A key way to do this is by adding leather accents. But, of course, leather is expensive. So, to get the look without the price, you can accent your home with artificial leather. There are a number of ways to do this. Here are just a few:

1. Add Leather to the Walls
Adding a little color to the walls is not the only way to turn a white wall in to something more distinctive. For a dynamic and luxurious look, you can add leather upholstered textured wall panels. If you are not sold on a wall of leather, mimic this idea and mix it up with glass tile. The look will be sure to be admired by all houseguests.

2. Add Leather to Furniture
You already know that a leather chair is a classic addition to any living room but did you ever think about adding leather to a bookshelf? This example shows shelf that is entirely covered in leather with metal tacks to act an extra special design. The piece is simple yet very elegant and sure to be an interesting piece.

3. Add Leather to the Bedroom
Leather does not have to stay in the living room with bookshelves, chairs, and walls. Bring it to the bedroom with an awesome headboard. This one shows an entire wall covered with leather paneling but you could limit it to just behind the bed for an equally rich look.

These ideas are just small ways to incorporate artificial leather in to your home. The little additions here and there will provide a special and unique look that is entirely your own.

leather diy stoolLeather furniture can turn any space in to something special. With this do-it-yourself leather fabric stool, you can create a unique piece of furniture that is very versatile for small spaces or just something to provide extra seating.

To make a stool of your own, you will need:
• #6 carpet or upholstery tacks
• Strap material, leather or upholstery webbing
• 2×2 oak (for the legs)
• 1×2 oak (for the stringers)
• Pocket screws
• Danish oil
• Pocket-screw guide
• Drill
• Saw
• Square
• Sandpaper
• Rags (to apply the finish)
• Tack hammer

diy leather stoolFirst, measure your leg height. Mark the boards with a square. It is essential to have exact, perfect square cuts. Otherwise you will have a wobbly, rocking stool on your hands.

Next, cut your stringer boards. If you want a rectangular stool, some ideal measurements would be 18 inches in length with four boards that are 12 inches. But the great thing about making your own furniture is that you can make it any size you want.

The next step is to drill all the pocket-screw guide holes. Clamp the guide to the board and drill all your holes.

Once the boards are cut and drilled, sand each one until it has a smooth finish. You will have an easier time sanding it now rather than when it is put together. Making sure to sand well; no one wants to get a sliver later!

To help with the assembly of the stool, cut 3/8 inch pieces of scrap board to position the stringers in the center of the leg pieces. Assemble the two complete ends. Attach them with the remaining stringer boards.

This completes the assembly of the frame. Now it is time to apply the finish. Danish oil is an easier finish to apply and the end result is very pretty. Just make sure to follow the additional instructions on the can. Also, make sure everything is completely dry before you put on the straps.

Using seat-belt webbing or upholstery straps, cut straps that will be long enough to completely wrap around your boards. The straps can be as wide as you choose depending on what look you want. Straps cut to 1 ½ inches work fairly well but it’s your choice. The thinner your straps, the closer they can be woven.

how to leather stoolAttach the longer straps first using the tack hammer. With the shorter pieces, weave them through and attach with the tack hammer.

You now have the option of leaving the leather color alone or adding a stain, finish, or wax to give it an entirely different look.

And now your faux leather fabric stool is finished! The great thing about this project is that there are so many different options to create a one of a kind look. You can switch up the type of wood you use or you can use different material to weave in to the seat. The options are endless but the end product is the same: you have an amazing new piece of furniture that you can proudly say you made yourself.

There are many names for these small furniture pieces: foot stools, ottomans, that-thing-over-there. And for their size, their price tag can leave you with raised eyebrows, which is why it is practical and money-saving to make one of your own through this tutorial.

The best part of making your own furniture from artificial leather fabric is that you can make it exactly how you want it. In this case, that means your ottoman can be whatever size you require. Just make sure that the measurements of the top and the bottom pieces of your ottoman are half of an inch larger than the measurements of the four sides. Another hint before you get started: use a drill bit that is the same diameter as the screw shank. This will help prevent the wood from splitting when you drill the pilot holes.


First things first, you will need the following items:
• 4 plywood squares, 23×23 inches, ½ inch thick (or measurements of your choosing)
• 2 plywood squares, 23 ½ x23 ½ inches, ½ inch thick (or measurements of your choosing)
• Power drill
• Drill bit set
• Phillips cross head bit
• 1 ½ inch wood screws
Pleather fabric
• Pencil
• Utility scissors or utility knife
• Framing square
• Measuring tape
• Yardstick
• Aerosol adhesive
• Quilt batting
• Scissors
• Carpet tacks
• Tack hammer
• Decorative upholstery tacks
• 4 locking furniture casters

Lay one 23×23 inch square plywood down. Stand another square of the same size on the edge making sure it fits snugly against one edge of the bottom piece.

Drill the pilot holes about 3 inches apart through the side of the upright sheet of plywood and in to the edge of the bottom piece. Using the Phillips head screwdriver bit, insert the wood screws in each pilot hole.

You now have an ‘L’ made out of plywood. Turn the entire piece to stand with the 23×23 facing you and the fastened corner upright and on the left. The second 23×23 piece should be away from you and on the left side of the frame.

Place another 23×23 piece along the right edge. This will make the next corner. Drill the pilot holes in to the piece that faces you and insert the screws.

Rotate the frame so the open side of the frame is on the right.

Drill and insert the screws on the last 23×23 piece. Rotate the frame and fasten the corner.

Take a 23 ½ x 23 ½ piece and place on top of the box. Drill pilot holes in the top piece and through to the frame. Insert the screws to fasten the top. Flip it over and fasten the second 23 ½ x 23 ½ piece to form the bottom.

Lay your fabric out and set the cube on top. Draw the outline of the cube with pencil then trace an outline that is 4 inches wider along that. Cut out the leather using the second outline.
Lay out the remaining fabric. Line the cube on top with it as close to the left edge as possible. Trace the left edge.

Roll the cube four times toward the right. Trace the right edge. Draw a straight line 4 inches to the right of thet raced line. Cut the leather along the left line and the wider right outline.

Put a framing square on the leather with 1 leg lined up on the left edge and the perpendicular leg on the bottom edge of the leather pointing right. Trace the bottom edge.

Line the yardstick with the traced line. Extend the line to the right cut edge. Cut the leather.

Measure the left side of the leather to 28 inches; mark it. Line the square on the left edge with its perpendicular leg extending across the leather at the pencil mark. Trace the edge, extend the line. Cut the leather.

Spray adhesive on the top of the cube. Place the sheet of quilt batting on the adhesive. Trim the excess.

Spray adhesive on the sides of the cube. Wrap with batting; trim the excess.

Center the leather square on top, right side facing up. Press the edge over the side. Hammer carpet tacks through the leather on the bottom edge about 3 inches apart. Rotate the cub 180 degrees and repeat the process. Rotate and repeat on the two other sides but make sure to keep the corners unfastened.

Press the leather on one corner over toward the left to make a smooth fold around the corner. Fasten the bottom edge of the fold to the cube using carpet tacks. Do this to all the corners.

Fold the rectangle leather piece over 2 inches with the right side facing out. The fold will be turned away toward the cube. Align the folded edge with the upper edge. Hammer decorative tacks ½ inch below the upper edge of the fold. Space 1 inch apart. Repeat along the bottom edges.  Repeat on the rest of the sides.

Fold the free edge of the leather under and tack it down on the corner. Add decorative tacks on both sides of each corner.

Turn the cube upside down. Align one locking furniture caster near each corner. Insert screws through the caster plates and into the bottom of the cube.

You have just completed making your very own ottoman!

Pleats are seen on everything from furniture to car seats to skirts. It’s a simple, symmetrical design. All one needs is a sewing machine, foam, white chalk or pencil, measuring tape, (optional) adhesive, and whatever fabric wanted. In this article, we will use vinyl as our test subject.

The thickness of the foam and the fabric are based on what the user chooses for whatever the pleats are being used for. Car seats would seemingly need a wider measurement of foam for tushy comfort. Once that is figured out, it’s time to measure the fabric to the foam.

Before buying the vinyl, look up what kind of elements it has. For example, stretch. Two-way stretch means it only stretches horizontally. Patent vinyl carries less stretch ability and is better used for things such as car seat upholstery. Of course, the exteriors of the vinyl are optional and free willing. Once the vinyl is chosen, the measuring tape can be taken out of the toolbox.

The width of the pleats is also a free-for-all. To figure out what would look best, measure the piece of foam from beginning to end. If it’s a smaller piece of foam, then smaller widths would be ideal. Random patterns can be made, too; maybe one pleat is an inch and the next is 3/5 of an inch. Do not let the fabric fool you, though. When the actual sewing of the fabric to the foam takes place, the thread will ultimately pull little bits of fabric with it, creating those indentations.

An 8 inch piece of fabric will not cover an 8 inch piece of foam. Leave extra room. Or let the foam remain a bigger size because it can also be cut down after sewing everything together. Also, leave space at the edges for “seam allowance.” Sewing the edges up will make the final product look neater, and prevent it from tearing or ripping, later on.
Mark the size of the pleats. Before the actual sewing begins, decide whether or not to stick the fabric to the foam. It will be harder to sew in nice straight lines without the fabric jumping all over the place, if it isn’t somehow attached to the foam. Maybe taping the corners down, somehow temporarily putting the two materials together, would be an alternative.
After all the specs and planning comes the fun part. Take the time to look over everything before committing it to the sewing machine. Is just one side of the foam being covered, or the whole thing? Is there anything that needs to be done to the fabric before it’s finished? Questions like this could help avoid resentment.

Sew, nice and easy, down the marked lines. Foam is flimsy, so using something like a thick ruler near the line being sewn will be very helpful. First and foremost, take your time. After the sewing is done, make sure everything is up to your standard. Cut or sew any extra thread, foam, etc. Hopefully, you get what you wanted.

Headboards are surprisingly easy to make at home. The base, or foundation, can be old or unused shutters, a small ladder, plywood, etc. It fully depends on what the builder wants. After all the measurements are planned (how much fabric will be needed), batting is usually set between the base and the cover; fabric, and in this case, faux leather. Sometimes, foam is stuck on, using an adhesive such as glue, before the batting, for extra comfort.

Faux leather, as a headboard cover, may be better to use than actual leather. Not only is it cost effective, it is easier to clean, and is animal friendly. If something irreparable were to happen, though, it would not cost much more time and/or money to replace. Unlike its use in clothing, faux leather’s breathable ability (or lack of) does not need to be considered. The material is simply being used to create and Ikea meets Pottery Barn type of look. Faux Leather Headboard

Faux leather arrives in many colors, so it can be customized to fit the feng-shui of the room. A leather headboard can be appreciated by most age groups. For college students, as an example, it may be ideal to incorporate brighter colors, or ones that are not usually associated with genuine leather, like blue.

Thickness of the material is also individualized. If batting and foam are being used, then a thicker cut of fabric is probably best. Usually, the headboard is then mounted onto a wall. After all, it’s a piece that is meant to be seen, especially if made from scratch. Something that took time and effort should be exposed. It would also keep the board in shape for possible future moves. It wouldn’t be a bad idea as a house-warming gift, either.